Windbreaks, Borders, and Screens

There is a difference between privacy screens and other barriers. A windbreak is an effective border or screen, but is several rows wide, and should be composed of several varieties of trees and tall shrubs. This is very different than a fenceline border, or privacy screen, which are basically planting single trees in one or two rows.

Here is an important factor. Understandably you want it now, but save yourselves the headaches, expense, and future hassles by selecting the right trees for the purpose. Cost is always a factor, not just buying big trees versus small ones, but also planting, watering, and upkeep costs also. The other thing to consider is the outcome. What will you achieve, and what value have you added to your property.

Trees and plants for the home landscape, farm, or reforestation project, are an investment. And like all investments, there are risks. With trees, there are the risks of weather, proper planting procedures, animal damage, and other factors that can cause problems, but once the trees are growing, it is then just a matter of time. Growth rates will vary considerably among the various tree species, as well as on the planting site itself, there are no guarantees about that. Overall, the fast-growing trees will out perform most other tree growth rates, and keeping the trees watered and fertilized during the growing season will help significantly.

Some of the fenceline trees, which also can work as solid screens, include the Ameri-Willow, Lombardy Poplar, other fast-growing hardwoods, the Arbor-Vitae, and most of the conifers. Each of these will have a fairly tight shape, and will become a solid barrier over time. Plant them as close as five or six feet or as wide apart as ten or more feet. The willows and poplars will grow really fast, but will lose their leaves in the fall. The conifers will stay thick and green year-round, but are much slower growing. So you might keep in mind the differences between the types of trees when planting.

If space is more available to let the trees spread out, then the Leyland Cypress and Hybrid Poplar, and others make effective screens. These grow fast, and the cypress stays green, while the poplar drops its leaves in the fall. By planting a row of fast-growing hardwoods, and a row of slower-growing evergreens, you can have year-round screening, and fast growth!

For thick, year round screens and borders, firs, spruce and cedars do well. Douglas-Fir can grow fairly fast, about 1 to 3 feet a year, but the others will grow about 1 foot a year. Here again, there is that time factor, but the outcome is impressive. Other conifers can be used instead to reduce the time factor, like the pines, which are generally medium-fast growers.

For value and beauty, lines of birch or aspen really are spectacular. They don't make thick effective screens, but for increasing value to a property, how can you beat a driveway or fenceline with these? Colorado Blue Spruce is also a choice for "valuable" lines. Here again, consider combining the hardwoods and evergreens for a year-round green barrier.

There are other trees and tall shrubs that can be used in lines, like Sweetgum, Russian Olive, the pines, and others, and they are fine, but the project depends on your needs and desired outcome. Think about it.

Spacing, is a factor of available space and the trees' normal shape. The general rule of thumb is 6 to 10 feet apart. Slower growing and more narrow shaped trees can be planted closer together so the line fill in sooner. For faster growing or wider-shaped types, then planting can be spaced wider. Planting two staggered or offset rows can change the spacing also. Instead of planting a poplar (for example) six feet apart, two offset rows can be planted at eight or ten feet apart. The effective spacing is then four or five feet apart. It helps to draw your plans on paper and try different arrangements and types of trees and shrubs.

Planting is easy, but planting a long row or several rows can make for a long day! Some areas where there is a need for more water or excessive drainage, then "plant lower". In the other respect, if the area is wetter or has poor drainage, then some trees you may need to plant on a mound to aide in drainage. Just a couple thoughts...

Dig a hole a little bit larger than the roots are wide (when spread out. Place the tree in the hole so the roots can then be covered completely. Scoop the hole. Water it, and that's basically it! You can mix in organic materials or bagged soil mixes, but this is not needed unless your soil is very heavy clay or rocky, or very sandy. Do place a layer of mulch around the trees to help conserve water, suppress weeds, and help insulate roots from weather extremes.

Do not fertilize. Let the trees get settled in for a month or so before sprinkling a light fertilizer on the soil surface. Water the fertilizer in.

A water basin around the trees can be helpful, but also not needed. The mulch layer will be effective in conserving water, but also plan on some type of watering system. Depending on your set-up, there are many ways to add water, a hose, sprinklers, a drip tube set-up, or even the bucket method.

Lines of trees can block out wind, unsightly neighbors, or just add an attractive boundary marking. The lowest cost and most beneficial form of fencing and green barriers is to plant trees.

Happy Planting!